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One of my favorite activation methods for remote duct booster fans is a pressure sensing switch. The pressure switch has a distinct advantage over hard wiring, since you do not have to pull new wires from the main fan unit to the remote mounted fan.  This saves you time and money on installation.

The pressure switch works by sensing the pressure increase in the duct from the central fan activating. The switch diaphragm is able to sense extremely small pressure increases (approximately 0.05″ – 0.07″) which then activates a single pole, single throw snap switch that starts the duct booster fan.

The pressure switch is connected by means of a pressure tap that is either a section of flexible tubing, such as used by the Fantech DB10, or a short direct barbed tap, as used by the Tjernlund PS1503, that can be inserted into the duct or plenum. In the case of very long duct runs, the tap should be placed “upstream” of an elbow in order to take advantage of the temporary pressure build up before the elbow due to the resistance of the bend. The switch can be conveniently installed near the booster fan localizing and limiting the amount of area disturbed by the upgrade.

Tjernlund Pressure Switch

All in all, the pressure switch is an easy and quick option when installing you duct booster fan.

What is Radon?
Radon is a cancer-causing natural radioactive gas that you can’t see, smell or taste. Its presence in your home can pose a danger to your family’s health. Radon is the leading cause of lung cancer among non-smokers. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in America and claims about 20,000 lives annually. The areas affected across the United states are shown here on this map:

- Zone 1 counties have a predicted average indoor radon screening level greater than 4 pCi/L (pico curies per liter) (red zones)
- Zone 2 counties have a predicted average indoor radon screening level between 2 and 4 pCi/L (orange zones)
- Zone 3 counties have a predicted average indoor radon screening level less than 2 pCi/L (yellow zones)

 Consulting this map is only for broad reference. In order to determine the level of Radon in you home the most effective method available to the public is a liquid scintillation or other radon test kit:

http://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/Fans/Radon-Fans/RadonAway-Radon-Test-Kits

This test is a simple first step towards peace of mind in protecting your family and yourself from the deleterious effects of Radon.

The average family can dump 10,000 gallons or more down the drain every year waiting for hot water.  That’s half a swimming pool wasted!  If only there was a way to save all that water…  hmmmm…

Luckily there is!  A recirculation pump (retrofit or dedicated return line) can save water from being wasted and the corresponding money. 

How do the retrofit systems work you ask?  The problem of course is that water heated by your water heater sits in the line between the heater and the tap(s) where it cools off. Let’s call this “previously hot” water. When you turn on the tap you need to flush out this previously hot water to get to the fresh hot stuff. With low-flow faucets and long plumbing runs, this can take a long time – and waste a lot of water.  An instant hot water system – or hot water recirculation system – flushes the previously hot water back into the hot water tank (rather than you running it down the drain) through the cold water line, so you have freshly heated water waiting for you when you turn on the faucet – instant hot water. 

Metlund and Laing pumps:
http://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/Instant-Hot-Water/Hot-Water-Recirculation-Pumps-NON-TANKLESS